-------SIGNALS---------

I have been a signalman on BR, Railtrack and Network rail now for more than 30 years, and I have developed a passion for signals and signalboxes (Its not all buses on this site!)

While working at Chester PSB I got involved with a friends gauge 0 layout (The Saltney Railway) and offered to build signals for it. As there were going to be quite a few upper quadrants, to save money I made my own masters for signal arms, lamps, backlight blinders etc and set about casting almost all the parts I needed.

I have produced 15 signals for the layout so far, including some ex GW types built from kits with about the same again yet to do.

Visitors to the layout have subsequently ordered a few signals and I have now built about 80 for various customers in the last 5 years!

Each signal is workable by your chosen method and is fitted with LEDs in the lamps (if required). The arms, lamps, backlight blinds, lampmans platforms are whitemetal. The posts are brass tube or etched brass from MSE. The ladders, coloured lenses and post caps are from MSE or Scale signal Supply.

Some pictures of them are shown in the centre column in which I will eventually show all the signals I have built. Click on each thumbnail for an enlarged view.

So how do I order a signal then?

Have a think about your track diagram and your needs and ring me up for a chat or send an email with a few ideas.

Some basic design points to bear in mind when designing your signals.

1. Where is it going to be placed? Would a driver be able to see it? Take into consideration bridges, tunnels, canopies and other scenic bits and bobs.

2. Will it physically fit where you want it to be? What's under the baseboard and will you have room for the operating mechanism?

3. What's the signal for? Plain line, junctions left or right, parallel running lines, shunt moves etc?

4. This is not a hard and fast rule, but generally, a bracket signal controlling diverging routes from one track will have it's dolls or posts a scale 6ft apart, and a bracket signal controlling parallel running lines converging to one line (at the end of a loop or slow line or exiting a bay platform) will have the dolls or posts a scale 11ft apart.

5. What's the best way of operating the signals? I used to use solenoids (point motors) but found the operation to be a bit harsh, especially on the bracket signal linkages. I now favour using micro-servos as used in the smaller radio controlled aircraft. These are as cheap if not cheaper than point motors but of course need electronic "drivers" to control them. These are available cheaply if you are a member of MERG the model railway electronics group or from model railway electronics retailers such as "Heathcote" 

Alternatively, you can maybe get an idea of what you need from the chart below. It is by no means an exhaustive list but may help a little. The functions of one type of signal may be fitted to another configuration. You may wish to consult your books and photo collections for further inspiration!

As stated above, I can build a limited range of 7mm scale LMS/BR(M) style tubular post signals to order.

The signals I have built so far are mainly designed for garden railway use, and as such they may appear a bit "chunky" and slightly overscale in some respects to be robust enough for outdoor use, but the main dimensions are from the excellent but now sadly out of print book, "LMS Signals" by L.G.Warburton. Click on the thumbnails in the centre column to the left to get an idea of the end result.

The general specification is as follows:-

Main posts from brass tube, soldered.

Whitemetal castings for arms, lamps, bracket supports, backblinders, post caps, landings and other sundry post fittings.

Machined brass trimmers (the horizontal supports to which each of the "dolls" are fixed)

Brass wire, strip and tube for all necessary operating rods and cross shafts. "Return to danger" springs fitted if required.

OPERATING RODS EXTEND ABOUT 2" BELOW BASEBOARD LEVEL TO ALLOW FITTING OF YOUR OWN PREFERRED OPERATING METHOD.

Brass or nickel-silver wire for safety railings around landings.

Etched brass ladders.

3mm warm white LEDs fitted to each lamp  and either a 470 ohm or 1k ohm resistor wired to positive side with rest of signal as negative (if requested.)

Sprayed with primer then finished with appropriate enamels. Light weathering at no extra cost.

How much are they likely to cost?

As a rule an illuminated tubular construction straight post signal will cost (£40) with one arm plus (£20) per additional arm to a max of 3 arms.(4 if all are shunt arms)

A similar specification bracket signal will cost (£70) with one arm plus (£20) per additional arm to a maximum of 3 dolls or posts with a maximum of 6 arms in total over entire signal.

The maximum number of arms on each signal reflects what I can reliably guarantee to work! More than that is possible but the workings become a bit too crowded and cumbersome.

As stated elsewhere, a drive rod to approx 2" below baseboard level is provided but operation of the signals is left for the customer to provide their own preferred system.

I cannot as yet build an LMS gantry, but I am looking into getting etches prepared so I can offer these at a later date.

Feel free to email or phone to discuss your requirements. Full details in the contacts and ordering page.

I can only offer these prices on my own specifications but I will build from kits if requested. These will of course be more expensive due to higher initial costs. I can work to photographs or drawings if supplied.